THE SOUTHWEST OF FRANCE WITH SUSAN BAXTER

Susan's suggestions:

In Depth: CAHORS

Ideally on a Wednesday or a Saturday, when we can spend the morning mingling with the crowds on Cahors' colorful market, and inspecting the stalls laden with all kinds of local produce, from fruit and vegetables in season, to foie gras, confit, pâtés, saucisson and other traditional preserved meats; from honey to wines (both can be tasted on the spot), from cheeses to cakes.

Take a mid-morning break in a bustling café, before plunging back into the fray. Enjoy lunch, in a traditional brasserie, or, if the great outdoors calls (and the weather plays along), why not buy the ingredients for a gourmet picnic, and take it off to a spot overlooking the city. Then, after a quiet siesta in the shade, take a gentle stroll through the mediaeval streets and alleyways of the old town, to see the beautiful houses and monuments dating back many hundreds of years.

At intervals, we'll come across gardens, tucked away in courtyards and odd places, planted with species known to have existed in France in the Middle Ages, and recalling aspects of life here in those times. Before the end of the day, we'll definitely visit the Pont Valentré, a fortified bridge which has proudly stood as the symbol of Cahors for seven hundred years, and perhaps have a reviving drink whilst contemplating it.

In Depth: ROCAMADOUR

It's about an hour's drive to Rocamadour, a famous place of pilgrimage to the Black Virgin since the 12th century. We can spend the morning on a leisurely visit to this magnificent place, finding out about its fascinating history and seeing not only the shrines, but the village itself, clinging to the steep limestone cliffs, and the beautiful natural surroundings.

In the afternoon, we can visit a cheese producing farm (where they make Rocamadour goat's cheese) and a foie-gras producing farm as well. Or take a gentle drive up towards the delightful Dordogne valley (only a few miles north) and visit some of the villages in the category "Most Beautiful Villages of France" (Autoire, Loubressac, Carennac). Afternoon tea on a terrace overlooking the valley before returning to the Lot valley.

Or drive to Montal and visit this exquisite Renaissance château, whose sculptures would grace a château in the Loire valley, and which is furnished throughout in the styles of the 16th/17th C. A beautiful place with a fascinating history. Drop down to St. Céré, only a couple of miles away, and take a break in this charming little market town, with its attractive mediaeval quarter. Drive back to base.

In Depth: HISTORIC VILLAGES, PREHISTORIC CAVES

The prehistoric cave of Pech Merle, above the wild and beautiful Célé valley, is less than an hour away from Cahors. Here we'd see the remarkable paintings, executed over 20,000 years ago. (This is the REAL cave, NOT a copy, like the replica at Lascaux.)

Lunch in Cabrerets, in the Célé valley. Then we'll drive a little further up the Lot valley and visit the Château de Cénevières, a castle dating back in part to the 13th century, with a Renaissance salon and gallery, and steeped in history. The owners, M. et Mme. de Braquilanges, live in the castle, which is furnished throughout with many superb period pieces. (M. de Braquilanges if we come across him is an absolute gem - very amusing). On the way home, we'll stop at St. Cirq Lapopie, a village perched high on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Lot valley, where the village houses are of a rare and beautiful quality and there are excellent arts and crafts shops. The essential afternoon refreshment stop happens here!