LISBON … IN DEPTH WITH CRISTINA DUARTE

Three ways to explore the city and its surroundings.

This is a daylong exploration of Lisbon’s close-in, “popular” neighborhoods, finding in each one its own character. The labyrinthine Alfama, where everybody seems to know everybody. The bright colored glazed tile museum in Xabregas. The marvelous view from the castle where the city seems to be a palette full of colors. The commercial Baixa quarter where vendors sell ice creams in summer, chestnuts in winter and umbrellas when it is raining. The aristocratic Chiado neighborhood, where I make my daily stop for coffee at the café Brasileira. Then the lively Bairro Alto, literally across the street, with laundry drying in the windows during the day, enlivened by bars and restaurants at night.

As many of these quarters are in the old hills of Lisbon (they used to be seven, like Rome) we’ll see a large number of belvederes and do a considerable amount of walking up and down (don’t forget comfortable flat shoes…), although we’ll also take a ride in one of Lisbon’s typical trams. The very modern Eastern quarter (Parque das Nacoes) home of the Universal Exhibition 1998, is included, and we’ll visit the Aquarium, one of the biggest in the world. Since it’s a long day, a tasty and nutritious Portuguese meal will be waiting for us at a local restaurant where Pedro will join us for dinner.

LISBON’S MARITIME HERITAGE & GARDENS

Today will be devoted to the westernmost quarter of Lisbon, Belem. From here, Portuguese navigators set sail towards Africa, the Orient and the Americas following the smell of cinnamon just as the Portuguese poet Camoes wrote. We will visit Geronimo’s church and cloister (16th century, mixed-styles decoration called Manueline style), the Maritime Museum (where life-size ancient boats can be seen), Belem tower (an exquisite fortress initially built in the middle of the river), the monument to the Portuguese discoveries (where a giant floor world map illustrates the Portuguese discoveries) and the Coach Museum (a unique display of Royal coaches from the 16th to the 19th century which will take our imagination to Cinderella coach). Pedro will join us for lunch. He's a botanist and will lead us to two different gardens: the Tropical Botanical Garden (displaying the flora of Portuguese former colonies) and the old University Botanical Garden (romantic style garden with one of the best collection of palm trees in Europe). Along the way, we'll relax with a nice glass of Port wine served with some creamy Portuguese goat cheese (not much, though; we don't want to spoil our appetites!).

LISBON SURROUNDINGS PALACES & VILLAS

Queluz, the Portuguese Versailles, is located 20 minutes drive from Lisbon. By visiting it we can immerse ourselves in an 18th century ambience and appreciate its fine furniture and decoration. Since it is an 18th century palace, we cannot forget to mention its “French” garden. Our next stop is Sintra, which has very much to offer: Royal palaces and romantic villas surrounded by luxurious vegetation. In Sintra we will also meet my friend Dantas, the owner of "Regional de Sintra" a friendly restaurant where the food tastes "like home" (in other words, Mediterranean flavors based on olive oil, garlic, onion and tomato). At the end of the afternoon we'll take in the breathtaking views of the westernmost point of continental Europe, the Cabo da Roca promontory. It is said that for here one can see the Statue of Liberty (but just don't believe in everything that is said).Dinner here, or back in Lisbon depending on the weather.