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" To be on a quest is nothing more or less than to become an asker of questions."
-- Sam Keen
Host profile: Jill Gaumet

Host: Jill Gaumet

Location: France: Lorraine

Profession: English Teacher/Translator

Specialty: Local Culture

With a degree in art history and French from UC Santa Barbara, Jill is a well-traveled Californian who has lived in Bordeaux (where she studied fine arts), Rome (where she taught English) and Tokyo (where she worked as a journalist). A decade ago she moved to Metz (for love). Now she lives with her husband and their three children in a "funky" 325-year-old townhouse in the city's historical center and teaches English at the university and translates on the side.

"Metz is a city that pleasantly surprises the most skeptical of people," says Jill.

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About Jill Gaumet

Metz, Jill points out, is a gem of a city that few know about because of its perceived reputation as a gritty mining town. But Metz today is far from that: it boasts a beautiful gothic cathedral (with stained glass windows by Marc Chagall), a bustling city center with lots of outdoor cafés, parks and a lovely river walk. It is also home to the oldest church and the oldest opera house in France.

When people come to visit, Jill also likes to take them to the three borders region where France, Germany and Luxembourg meet. Metz is also host to several festivals, notably the Christmas market and the Mirabelle festival in August.

"As an English teacher, I get to meet lots of interesting people," Jill writes. "I take particular pride in showing Metz and the region to my family and friends. I think it offers a different perspective than the Peter Mayle version of expat life."

Jill Gaumet Suggests:

LORRAINE … UP CLOSE WITH JILL GAUMET

Daily Life in Metz

Follow me! First, I pick up croissants at the corner boulangerie and prepare breakfast at the house. After I drop off the kids at school, we'll feed the swans and ducks on the river walk. Mid-morning we'll do our shopping at the covered (and outdoor) markets. We can have lunch at the house, in a restaurant or at the university cafeteria. Window-shopping (or real shopping) in town (by the way, we have a Mephisto store!), or we can go for a bike ride. After we pick up the kids at school we can visit the conservatory (they have free mini concerts there sometimes), go to the park, an indoor play area or a "parents" café. Then it's time for an "apéro"- or cocktail, followed by dinner at a restaurant…or you may even have the chance to try my husband's delicious beef Burgundy!

Metz Walking Tour

Metz may be off the beaten path, but it's well worth a visit. As one of my guests said, the city is a "paradis sécret."

Morning pick up at your hotel, visit the cathedral, the covered market (and outdoor market), the museum of history, the Place Jeanne d'Arc. Possible tour on the little train around town.

Afternoon exploring the river walk and nearby sites: the opera house, the Protestant temple, the governor's mansion, the Arsenal music hall, St Pierre de Nonnains church, the "plan d'eau" lake. Walking back via the old ramparts along the Seille river to the German Gate. Apéro (cocktail) at one of my favorite cafés, then dinner later.

"Three Borders Tour"

This works well in the late spring and summer. A morning drive along the country roads to Sierk-les-Bains, a fortress; Rodemack, a medieval village; and the Chateau de Malbrouck. Lunch at the Rothaus (the red house) on the Moselle river in Germany. Hop over to Luxembourg for a drive along the Moselle with its beautiful vineyards. A sparkling wine tasting at Bernard Massard.

Drive over to Luxembourg city to visit the Grund district.

Drive back to Metz, with a possible stop-over in Amnéville for a soak at the spa (if time allows- it's about two hours).

Comments from Jill's Guests

"I liked your house! Also the little café at the end of your street, and that nice square that you said hosts the Christmas market. The cathedral is spectacular; especially Chagall's stained glass windows."

— Virginia VanNatta, Singapore

"What I like about Metz is that this city has a flavor of medieval Europe itself. Every detail of Metz is inspiring and makes me imagine the people who used to live there hundreds years before. With the huge, solemn cathedral, ancient church, triumphal arch and the atmosphere of the streets, I couldn't mask my excitement! Best of all, as this city is not very well known (fortunately!) I would say, without all the tourists- even in the summer- you can enjoy the whole cathedral by yourself to your heart's content."

— Erina Miyakoshi, Tokyo

"I can't begin to tell you how impressed we were with the tour we took with you. Your presentation, knowledge and understanding of the area helped make our experience in Lorraine more fulfilling. You explained things better than I have ever seen. It made our trip to Lorraine even more special."

— Jaimie Peters, San Diego, CA
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